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The Greek Capital

Rugged inlets and sandy bays make up the magnificent combination that is the coastline of Athens. So it was that at the close of an autumn day, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to head to soothe bones still aching for a final taste of warm weather. For this city offers something that other European cities do not: a coastline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

Out of season, the coasts of the region still have a strong appeal, as I found when swimming into a dusk across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for revitalization in azure seas primed to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the Riviera’s accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a eatery whose Mediterranean fare is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the inlet it overlooks. In a tribute to times past, the appetizers is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as celebrated for its elevations as its coastline: natural elevations within sight of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for amblers when temperatures are cooler. For those who want to escape a metropolis that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – holders of wonderful titles such as the Nymphs' Hill and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my view, this historic city is the continent's most soulful and sublime.

If you reach the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the prize is a stunning view of the entire gulf and the offshore isles.

If you want to be in the center, the ancient Plaka district remains the ideal location. The old-school Adrian hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about €140 B&B. In the same area, Zorbas is a preferred restaurant with residents and serves the most succulent lamb cutlets. With vistas of the ancient monument, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and perfect for warm autumn evenings – for a special experience visit a top restaurant or the award-winning Macris.

Palermo

Think Neapolitan pizza is the ultimate in pizza? Reconsider. In this city they prefer sfincione, a tender, airy rectangle of bread topped with intense, onion-heavy tomato sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Hearty, satisfying and comforting, it’s sold in shops, kiosks and carts all over the city (Via Maqueda in the old town usually has several vendors).

We try it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they progress fast as young staff dish out slices of the pizza, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a few tables under the trees outside, but we dine as we stroll into town along narrow a street. This is a nice walk in October but wouldn’t always be in summer. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, temperatures in Sicily reached 104F in the shadow. At the summer's peak one hot spot hit a record 158F at the surface.

We wander the city and enjoy how its rich past is etched in its streets.

Now, as temperatures rise to 24C by the afternoon, we can wander the city and savour how its heritage is visible in its roads. Walking by baroque and art nouveau palaces, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we take in the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; a main square, with its 16th-century fountain, installed under Spanish rule; and the impressive cathedral, built on the site of a ancient mosque.

On the way back we take a side trip to Vucciria market, the origins of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its commercialization, but it is still noisy and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we pause for a traditional pani câ meusa, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “filling” set off by cheese topping. The stallholder is especially pleased of his offal specialty but, I’m sorry, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to return to more peaceful the old quarter, the historic district to the eastern part, which was bombed in the second world war and declined for decades before being renewed this century. a boutique hotel (ocean-facing doubles from $175 B&B) is a four-room B&B with many attractions nearby. Up the street is Palazzo Butera, a 17th-century baroque pile renovated and relaunched in 2021 to display the an art collection, which features works by contemporary artists and Andy Warhol.

Next day we walk a short distance to the city's Botanical Garden, with its notable multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are singing their hearts out as the sun pours down. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and the cold season will begin. We enjoy a last week in the sunshine.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the close of the warm season and spending time at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the Danube, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a metropolis of parks and manicured gardens, grassy areas and woodland belts, which exchange their emerald halo for a golden and yellowish tint the Austrians call golden autumn.

I leave behind the impressive buildings and old streets of the downtown. To the southwest of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the magnificent royal palace, where the gilt isn’t limited for the inside, and makes its way into corridors of towering copper bushes and curved walkways that lead to the butter-yellow palace.

To the eastern part, in the city’s a large park, I walk beneath the shady trees of the Hauptallee, an avenue that’s almost three miles long and ancient. On the edge of the park, the vintage-designed a trendy hotel (doubles from €78 with breakfast) is a ideally located retreat.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging green spaces and building community spirit), autumn brings a abundance of fresh produce on menus. Pumpkin cream soup is the classic dish – best devoured in a traditional pub such as the decorated a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

The city is a place of parks and gardens that swap their emerald halo for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the sole European capital to grow wine within its city limits, with 1,723 acres of vineyards. There are fourteen designated city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Route one takes you through the vintner lands of Nussdorf. Relax in a slope wine tavern such as Wieninger am Nussberg, sipping a citrussy grüner veltliner with a platter (a platter of cold cuts and dairy), while enjoying the sublime city vista.

The hours are getting briefer, but now is the perfect time to wander among Vienna’s stately palaces, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|